When I closed my eyes I was flying out over the dramatic skyline of Cairo into the Egyptian desert… when I opened my eyes again, I was literally squinting into the blazing sun and I had to blink several times, unable to process what seemed to be an incredible mirage below me. The plane started to descend and I realized that this was not a figment of my imagination, this was Sharm El Sheikh, my destination, and we were fast approaching what could only be described as the Egyptian equivalent of Las Vegas.
Diving in the Red Sea
Sharm El Sheikh is the epitome of a scuba diver’s paradise. Its close proximity to many parts of Europe, Asia and Africa makes the prospect of a hassle-free, quick holiday within reach. The crystal clear waters are teeming with fish life. Reefs drenched in soft coral of every conceivable colour and spectacular wrecks surrounded by clouds of game fish ensure that there is something for everyone.
Clear water and healthy coral reefs
The dives are easy, the water is always warm and the sun is forever shining. While some find the artificially created beaches, the all inclusive resorts, and the lack of culture a bit off-putting, surely divers agree that world class reefs like Shark & Yolanda and Jackson are well worth the trip, as are the rare glimpses of elusive marine life like oceanic white tips, hammerheads, and whale sharks.
But of course this is not what drew me to this destination…I was here for one animal and one animal alone…the elusive giant manta ray, Manta birostris. Since our team differentiated it from its smaller cousin the reef manta, Manta alfredi, in 2009, we have had our eye on this species. With next to nothing known about this giant ocean wanderer it became clear to us early on that more intensive monitoring would be necessary to learn about its habits and ascertain its conservation status.
Dramatic fish schools
Science aside, the giant manta ray has always held a special place in my heart. The first manta that I ever encountered was a giant, barreling down at me across another sandy desert, albeit an underwater one, off Cocos Island (Costa Rica). Almost two decades and one love affair with manta rays later, I am still as mesmerized with this giant animal as the first day that I laid eyes on one. These days, however, my interests in them have evolved.
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